There’s something really special about bringing a bit of handmade magic into your home for the holidays, and this free crochet pattern for the Tabletop Evergreen is one of those projects that feels both relaxing and rewarding. If you’ve been looking for a simple yet beautiful way to add DIY holiday decor to your space, this little crocheted tree fits perfectly into just about any winter vignette, mantels, bookshelves, nightstands. You name it!

Scroll down for the free pattern or save this project for later on Pinterest!

Looking for an ad free version? You can find the PDF version on Etsy, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, or Ko-Fi!

Materials for Mounted Evergreen:

• Approximately 125 yards/114 meters of 2/fine weight yarn.
• US 3 mm Hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• Tapestry Needle 
• Measuring Tape 
• Scissors
• Stitch Marker
• 1/4″ by 12″ Wooden Dowels (which will be cut down to size)
• 3″ Wooden Puck of some style (for base) **You can purchase these with a 1/4″ center hole already drilled or you will need to drill a 1/4″ hole yourself.
• Hot Glue Gun
• Hot Glue

Materials for Free-Standing Evergreen:

• Approximately 223 yards/204 meters of 4/medium weight yarn.
• US 5 mm Hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• Tapestry Needle
• Measuring Tape
• Scissors
• Stitch Marker
• Cardboard to be cut down to size and shape.

Gauge:

With 2/fine weight yarn and 3mm hook – 23 stitches by 14 rows = 4″x4″ in double crochet, unblocked

With 4/medium weight yarn and 5 mm hook – 14 stitches by 9 rows = 4″x4″ in double crochet, unblocked

Gauge is important to your project so your finished piece will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The hook size for the pattern is based on what I used, but gauge can vary from person to person and be affected by yarn variations. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make 4”, try using a smaller size hook; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook. The pattern also provides measurements to obtain a specific size. Using a combination of matching gauge and measuring, as closely as possible, should get you close to the desired size.

Sizing/Measurements:

Measurements are of finished piece, including all finishing and hardware.

Mounted Evergreen – 9″ tall and 4.5″ wide

Free-Standing Evergreen – 9.5″ tall and 7.5″ wide

Where to Measure:

Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms):

• ch(s) – chain(s)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• sk – skip
• sp – space
• crab st – crab stitch or reverse single crochet (do not turn your work and insert hook backwards into the stitch to the right of current stitch, working a single crochet)
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• FLO – front loop only
• BLO – back loop only
• puff st – puff stitch ([yarn over, insert hook into stitch, draw up a loop] 3 times, yarn over, pull through all 7 loops)
• RS – right side
• WS – wrong side

Notes:

• Beginning chains DO count as stitches unless otherwise noted.
• Counts at the end of the rows include chain stitches.
• Stitches between the [ ] brackets are to be worked the total number of times indicated.
• Stitches between the ( ) parenthesis are to be worked into the same stitch.
• Stitches with the number appearing first will all be worked into the same stitch. For example, 5dc would be 5 double crochet all worked in the same stitch. Whereas, dc 5 would be one double crochet worked into each of the next five stitches.
• Worked flat in a combination of turned rows and rows worked in reverse with crab stitches.

PATTERN

For the Mounted Evergreen, work with 2/fine weight yarn and 3 mm hook.

For the Free-Standing Evergreen, work with 4/medium weight yarn and 5 mm hook.

Row 1 (RS): In magic circle, ch 2 (to count as dc here and through-out), dc 4, ch 2, dc 5. Tighten circle. (12)

**Chains count as stitches.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, turn, dc first st, [ch 1, sk 1, puff st] 2 times, ch 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, ch 1, [puff st, ch 1, sk 1] 2 times, 2dc. (18)

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc first st, sc 7, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc 7, 2sc. (22)

**I placed sc IN the chain stitches not around them, except for the middle chain 2, which will be worked around.

**I suggest placing a stitch marker in the chain 2 space of crab stitch rows to keep track of it.

Rows 4 (WS): Ch 2, turn, dc first st, [ch 1, sk 1, puff st] 4 times, ch 1, sk 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, puff st] 4 times, ch 1, sk 1, 2dc. (26)

Row 5 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc first st, sc 11, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc 11, 2sc. (30)

Row 6 (WS): Ch 1, do not turn, crab st first st, crab st FLO 13, (crab st, ch 2, crab st) in ch-2 sp, crab st FLO 13, sl st. (32, 26 unworked back loops)

Row 7 (RS): Ch 1, do not turn, 2sc BLO first unworked loop, sc BLO 11, 2sc BLO, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, 2sc BLO, sc BLO 11, 2sc BLO. (34)

**You will NOT count beginning chain as a stitch for row 7.

Row 8 (RS): Ch 2, turn, dc first st, [ch 1, sk 1, puff st] 7 times, ch 1, sk 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, puff st] 7 times, ch 1, sk 1, 2dc. (38)

Row 9 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc first st, sc 17, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc 17, 2sc. (42)

Row 10 (WS): Ch 2, turn, dc first st, [ch 1, sk 1, puff st] 9 times, ch 1, sk 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, puff st] 9 times, ch 1, sk 1, 2dc. (46)

Row 11 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc first st, sc 21, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc 21, 2sc. (50)

Row 12 (WS): Ch 1, do not turn, crab st first st, crab st FLO 23, (crab st, ch 2, crab st) in ch-2 sp, crab st FLO 23, sl st. (52, 46 unworked back loops)

Row 13 (RS): Ch 1, do not turn, 2sc BLO first unworked loop, sc BLO 21, 2sc BLO, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, 2sc BLO, sc BLO 21, 2sc BLO. (55)

Row 14 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sl st 16, ch 2, dc in same st as last sl st, ch 1, puff st, [ch 1, sk 1, puff st] 4 times, ch 1, sk 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, puff st] 5 times, ch 1, 2dc. (30)

**You will NOT count slip stitches for the stitch count.

Row 15 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc first st, sc 13, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc 13, 2sc. (34)

Row 16 (WS): Ch 2, turn, dc first st, [ch 1, sk 1, puff st] 7 times, ch 1, sk 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, puff st] 7 times, ch 1, sk 1, 2dc. (38)

Row 17 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc first st, sc 17, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc 17, 2sc. (42)

Row 18 (WS): Ch 1, do not turn, crab st first st, crab st FLO 19, (crab st, ch 2, crab st) in ch-2 sp, crab st FLO 19, sl st. (44, 38 unworked back loops)

Row 19 (RS): Ch 1, do not turn, 2sc BLO first unworked loop, sc BLO 17, 2sc BLO, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, 2sc BLO, sc BLO 17, 2sc BLO. (46)

Row 20 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sl st 16, ch 2, dc in same st as last sl st, ch 1, puff st, [ch 1, sk 1, puff st] 2 times, ch 1, sk 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, puff st] 3 times, ch 1, 2dc. (22)

Row 21 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc first st, sc 9, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc 9, 2sc. (26)

Row 22 (WS): Ch 2, turn, dc first st, [ch 1, sk 1, puff st] 5 times, ch 1, sk 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, puff st] 5 times, ch 1, sk 1, 2dc. (30)

Row 23 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc first st, sc 13, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc 13, 2sc. (34)

Row 24 (RS): Ch 1, do not turn, crab st first st, crab st FLO 15, (crab st, ch 2, crab st) in ch-2 sp, crab st FLO 15, sl st. (36, 30 unworked back loops)

Row 25 (RS): Ch 1, do not turn, 2sc BLO first unworked loop, sc BLO 13, 2sc BLO, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, 2sc BLO, sc BLO 13, 2sc BLO. (38)

Fasten off. Set aside.

Make 2 more, you’ll need a total of 3 tree pieces.

Once you have all three tree pieces move on to the assembly instructions for your finish.

Mounted Assembly

Free-Standing Assembly

I hope you loved making the Tabletop Evergreen as much as I did!

If you enjoyed this free crochet pattern, be sure to pin it for later and share your finished piece on social media (tag @woodland.stitchcraft on IG)—I’d love to see your creations!

Looking for more free crochet patterns? Browse my collection of fun and stylish crochet designs to keep your hooks busy all season long.