You’ve downloaded your shiny new garment pattern, you have the yarn picked out and your gauge is dead on. Now what size are you making? There are two key things to do before you choose your size. First, measure yourself and second, factor in fit.
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Take and track your measurements.
Some patterns will be made to fit patterns, where a size is not actually included, and you just crochet the piece to your measurements or to the fit you want. Obviously, you’ll want body measurements for this type of pattern.
Other patterns WILL have general sizes laid out and the pattern broken down into all the different instructions for those sizes, but even then, you’ll need your body measurements to pick the correct size.
Crochet patterns are, for the most part, independently published. There are some standards that are followed by the community largely. A lot of crocheters use the information available at The Craft Yarn Council. It’s a great place to go for information on a lot of crochet standards that will put your skills in line with some of the broader community. I use them as a resource often!
The size charts in crochet patterns are also being independently put together through data each designer is collecting. Size charts in patterns may not match with the sizes you’ve made from other patterns or the sizes you purchase in the stores. Think of it like different brands. You know how some brands XL fits differently than another brands XL. That’s because each company has their own size charts they work from, same thing here.
So what should you do?
You’ll want to use your personal measurements to pick a size. There are tons of measurement points on the body but for most crochet patterns you can get away with just a few. The big ones you will want to have will be your chest, waist, and hips. Most tops and outer wear are going to need these measurements and you’ll use waist and hips for skirts and other bottoms. Depending on the style and fit there will be more that you’ll need but these are always a good place to start.
You’ll take your measurements and compare them against the measurements in the pattern. Make sure you consider the ease and fit of the garment you’ll be making and choose the size according to what will fit your actual size and what will meet your fit preference.
If you’re a beginner and wanting to follow a pattern exactly, choose the size that is going to fit the LARGEST part of your measurements. Whichever it was of your chest, waist or hips. This might mean it doesn’t fit in other areas, but you can just follow the pattern exactly and not mess with alterations and be able to wear it.
Once you have more experience with shaping and altering garment patterns, you’ll want to start at the size that would be the hardest to alter. For example, I am wider in my hips than my chest. The chest area of tops is usually the harder area to change compared to widening out by adding stitches or going up a hook size to accommodate my hips. I would choose my size based on my chest measurements and work in alterations.
How To Take Chest, Waist and Hip Measurements
Chest: Under the arms at the widest or fullest part of the chest, measuring all the way around and recording as a total circumference.
Waist: Just above the belly button, at narrowest part of torso. Usually where you bend at the side. Measure all the way around and record as a total circumference.
Hips: With legs together, at the widest part of hips. Measure all the way around and record as a full circumference.
Tip: It can be beneficial to also take a sitting waist and hip measurement. Our bodies shift when we sit and there’s nothing worse than something that you can’t sit comfortably in because it’s suddenly too tight!
Want a more comprehensive look at how and what measurements to take for making garments? Sign up for the Woodland Stitchcraft Email List and get this free measurement guide complete with graphics and a blank tracking page you can fill in with your own measurements. Or the PDF is in my Etsy Shop.
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Size vs. Fit
Something I also find really important to nail down early on when you want to hand make your own garments is understanding the difference between size and fit. Have you ever asked yourself, did I make the wrong size or do I just not like the fit? It’s a really important question to ask yourself! Decerning between the size your measurements are and the WAY you want the garment to fit might alter the size you choose to make. If you like to wear your cardigans very big and oversized but the pattern you want to use has a slimmer fit, than you won’t make the size intended for your measurements. You’ll go up a size or maybe two depending on the amount of ease you prefer.
As I said before, a pattern might have a chart with all the measurements you’ll need but you’ll also need to look for fit information. Some patterns might list the intended ease. If a garment has positive ease than it will fit larger and more loosely, if there is a negative ease, that means the garment is smaller than body measurements and generally stretches and fits tightly on the body. Also, look for pictures of the pattern being worn so you can see how it is fitting on the models.
Combining the knowledge of your actual measurements with your personal fit preference will help you to pick the size that will give you the results you’re truly after.
Tip: If you think you want to try going up or down a size, look at those finished measurements and use your measuring tape to hold the new size of the garment up against your body and see if it’s going to give you the ease you’re looking for!
I hope this helps make choosing your size a little easier! It can be so much fun to make your own clothing and with just a little practice you’ll craft a wardrobe you love.
